Oud essential oil is produced from Aquilaria trees which mostly grow in the rainforests of Southeast Asia. "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance." Ambergris A Bellini cocktail is a must for many thousands of visitors to Venice, who since 1948 have flocked to Harrys Bar in Venice to sip on their speciality: a cocktail of sparkling white Prosecco and white peach puree. The London-based brand is known for its contemporary spin on floral fragrances - all created by star perfumer Jrme pinette using sustainably sourced ingredients. (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. Kenzo Amour 9 High Line Jean-Louis Scherrer Jean-Louis Scherrer The key aroma compound in sweet orange oil, meanwhile, is something called d-limonene and its also a sensitiser for some people, meaning it has to be listed (albeit in the teensiest writing) on labels. It has more character than sweet orange; it seems naughtier to me. Etro Patchouly Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of a Styrax tree. C9 nonanal smells of roses. Roja Parfums Risqu Jo Malone London Orange Blossom Bamboo is of course also linked with Asian culture: its the Chinese symbol of longevity, while in India its a symbol of friendship. Rose ottos extracted via steam distillation, while the more precious rose absolute, via solvent extraction, or CO2 extraction. synthetic) to evoke the sticky sweetness of dried figs, dates and apricots. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia In general, its a fantasy or synthetic note you smell, rather than any essence from cocoa beans themselves but its there for the sheer, pleasurable links with one of mans (and especially womans) most indulgent foods, Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon (We often marvel at who must first have experimented with some of the more unusual elements in perfumery and try to imagine some of the failed experiments, too) Not surprisingly, this carnal, animalic note has since the beginning of the 20th Century for ethical and environmental reasons almost always been recreated synthetically: its really not on to kill an animal to extract a scented oil. Goutal Rose Pompon Womens chypres, and mens fragrances, are most likely to have a leathery sensuality, but perfumers can take leather on all sorts of fragrant journeys: woody, aromatic, floral, even gourmand. It has fruity undertones (peachy, pear-y, banana-y, apple-y), but complements white flowers wonderfully. Innocent, tuberose most definitely is not, Goutal Tubreuse Yves Saint Laurent Paris. (No surprise that in aromatherapy, bergamot is actually used to treat depression) For perfumers, its invaluable for helping to blend notes into a single bouquet, and fix them there. Boadicea the Victorious Majestic Orange blossom absolute is richer, sweeter, headier there are hints of that other white flower, jasmine, about it (and if you look at its chemical make-up, there are similar aroma compounds in both). Dior Miss Dior But do you enjoy wearing chocolate? Guavas themselves, we find, dont travel well: best enjoyed in a tropical setting at the peak of their ripeness. Editions de Parfums Frdric Malle Lipstick Rose Just like Chanel, Hermes has become quite relaxed with the release of numerous flankers since the departure of the great Jean-Claude Ellena. The brand establishes a relationship of confidence with producers . Now who, exactly, first thought that an ingredient from the castor sac (a gland near the beavers reproductive organs) would be just fantastic when bottled and dabbed onto the pulse-points? ". Patchouli, black tea and tobacco can also conjure up that old library/leather-jacket sensuality. How cool is that? The early fragrant use of the flowers was in pomanders. But how does it smell? A herb that grows in the Middle East, North Africa, and the Mediterranean, also known as sweet myrrh. Tom Ford Black Orchid. Yes, if we eat it: nectarines are of course smooth-skinned, and have a whiter flesh. it actually stops minor wounds bleeding.) But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. Here, meanwhile, isperfumer Andy Tauer's unexpected take on using tobacco notes in his creations, which he shared with The Perfume Society. Atropa Belladonna. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy A little bit rubbery, sometimes. Guerlain Aprs lOnde But if youve ever received (or even grown) one of these bulbs (generally at Christmas), youll know what the name means: this trumpet-shaped flower really blooms when the foliage has died down. No kidding. Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. Frederic Malle En Passant Thats an evocative name for a fragrance ingredient, if ever we heard one. Cinnamomum cassia even has cinnamon in its botanical name, and is known sometimes as Chinese cinnamon, or even false cinnamon. Ethyl maltol Dried fruit scent with a caramelized sugary scent. ), Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. Herms Eau de Pamplemousse Rose But just sometimes, youll catch a whisper of avocado in perfumery: it has a green, slightly sweet, vegetal quality. Production of this beautiful powdery, soft, floral, elegant note requires great patience hence the hefty price-tag. There are hundreds of different species of Narcissi today white, yellow, some with a touch of pink or orange (including our everyday daffodil) but not all are fragrant. ), This flowering vine was originally native to the south of India, where its long been used in Ayurvedic medicine. Tom Ford White Patchouli. And then theres orange itself (sometimes referred to as sweet orange, to distinguish it from the bitter, marmalade variety.). For a complete beauty ritual, prolong the fragrance trail with other expressions of the scent. #5. Diptyque Do Son The Fragrance Shop's head of brand, Athina Macpherson offered some interesting insights into how Britons spent their money on fragrances this year. Marshmallow isnt just a smell. It is an extremely rich, warm, and voluptuous rose odor with a hint of honey. As perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'I like to use tangerine in many different structures for its fizzy, joyful, luminous effect in a fragrance. However, as Guerlains in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser explained to us, whenever something is removed from an ingredient through fractionation, it leaves a hole. (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) Well, these days you wont only find this liqueur in a glass, but in some gourmand fragrances. Used alongside rose, it extends and fixes roses sweetness. Eucalyptol Eucalypt extract. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger Whether you hide it or show it, it does its magic every single time., One of the main flower notes used in perfumery, rose is, shockingly, also one of the more expensive perfume ingredients. Atelier Cologne Trefle Pure Chanel Coco FlorisPink Grapefruit Notes reminiscent of this favourite beverage from the dried leaves of Camellia sinensis (seen in our photo growing on plantation slopes) - have made their way into quite a few sheer, uplifting fragrance creations in recent years, a trend kickstarted by Bulgaris Eau Parfume au Th Vert. Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. Happily, its so concentrated that only a small amount need be used (although several very sophisticated scents do ramp up the tuberose, as a star ingredient). DedCool Fragrance 03 Blonde: Black Violet/Saffron. Sometimes, then, its paired with other tea-like ingredients but more to paint an olfactory picture, in marketing terms, than for any other reason. Heaven knows how or why someone had the idea of using the soft, paste-like glandular secretion from underneath the swishy striped tails of civet cats, however, which they use to mark their territory: its extraordinarily powerful and even stomach-turningly obnoxious in its concentrated form. (Though rums more widely used to add swagger to mens perfumery, quite a few opulent womens scents also feature a slug of this multi-faceted ingredient, which can have hints of vanilla, clove, ginger or ripe fruits). . Not surprisingly, a synthetic versions often used. Bulgari Jasmin Noir This came after animal studies linked fragrance ingredient p-cymene to headaches, weakness, & irritability, along with the reduction in number and density of brain synapses. It smells like cinnamon. Theyre also edible, should you ever find yourself in front of the actual tree (Robinia pseudoacacia). Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. These apparently delicate flowers - a.k.a. Lavender is thought to have originated in the highlands of India, but today its happy in all sorts of sunny, stony, well-drained spots around the world. The very first leather scent, so far as records show, was worn by King George III: Creeds Royal English Leather. Can it purr? Unusually for a perfume ingredient youll quite often see it listed on the back of the carton which your fragrance bottle is packaged in: eugenols use is now restricted in perfumery, as its been known to cause allergies in some people, so it must be mentioned on perfume ingredients lists to alert them. Freesia works perfectly to complement lily of the valley, peony, magnolia, but is rarely the shining star of a perfume itself. endless. I love working with clary sage for its clean, pastel, genderless versatility," says perfumer Mackenzie Reilly. The soft, sweet, pretty-pretty powderiness of blossoms from the flowering Prunus so prized in Japan are expected to start turning up in many more fragrances, as perfume starts to look East in earnest. But we happen to adore it, Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Cdre Diptyque Tam Dao So theres some suggestion that datura, or angels trumpet, is used mostly for its mythical status rather than any unique aromatic qualities. Caron Royal Bain de Caron Estee Lauder Beautiful It also cured snakebite, increased fertility and was a cornerstone of Four Thieves Vinegar, a blend of herbs alleged to ward off the plague. Fresh Love Its the image of driftwood that this note really evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, water and lightness. Check out the below infographic to help you figure out the best elements to keep an eye out for while investing in the perfume of your choice. Guerlain Nahma LOccitane en Provence Dlice des Fleurs Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach. Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial Hypnotic, heady, almost intoxicatingly sweet, tiar wafts its exotic way into white floral scents and Ambres. Caron Tabac Blond Lush Smell of Weather Turning Learn more Sign up for text & get up to 20% OFF. A gum resin from a tree found in Arabia and Eastern Africa and also known as olibanum, frankincense is one of the oldest materials used for fragrance in recorded history. Calvin Klein Eternity Of course, perfumers can mimic the scent using other woody and ambery ingredients more abundant in nature but nothing compares to the complexity of high- quality natural oud oil, which has olfactory references to dry woods, ambery resins, and even leather. Loilta Lempicka L de Lolita Natural rubber also listed on labels as: Fragrances may be composed of. This long-stalked plant has been used for centuries for medicinal purposes, as well as in cooking but with a little caution: the stalks may be edible, but the leaves are poisonous. And as with wine, petitgrains affected by the terroir, or the soil and conditions its grown in, with each crop having a subtly different scent. Guerlain Samsara And its controversial: the original musk came from a sex gland secretion from a specific a species of deer, the Tibetan musk deer, which became endangered - though since 1979 this creature has happily now protected by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). Givenchy Ange ou Demon The name, quite simply, comes from the old Tamil words patchai (green) and ellai (leaf). Christian Dior Bois d'Argent Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon (Which probably pegs most British gardeners as witches, then. LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a LAube What you smell actually comes from a sticky brown resin, taken from a plant that grows (often in very inhospitable, dry locations) in the Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East. Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. Now theres an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too. Cartier Dlices de Cartier Alas, thats not going to happen: the dandelion (closely related to the daisy) offers a subtle, bitter-sweet and aromatic note with whispers of citrus and rose nothing, though, that perfumers are falling over themselves to use. Nina Ricci Mademoiselle Ricci. You probably know this as oud (or oudh) which has become an incredibly popular perfume ingredient, in the past few years. Lorenzo Villoresi Patchouli The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. Grossmith Betrothal In total, we exclude over 170 ingredients from our fragrancesmore exclusive than the list of ingredients banned by the International Fragrance Association. Popular brands and perfumes. Tom Ford White Musk Collection White Suede. Olfactive Studio Still Life Bulgari Eau Parfume au Th Vert Same sweetness but more subtle. Floris Wedding Bouquet Famously, Nicotiana tabacum - member of the nightshade family made its way to Europe via the Spanish, in around 1528. Diptyque Eau de Tarocco Givenchy Pi Jean-Claude Ellena and Geza Schoen - who creates scents for Ormonde Jayne use a lot of pink pepper, and Karyn Khoury (Creative Director for Este Lauder) has long been a fan, first introducing it into Pleasures, which has become a major classic: pink pepper adds a piquancy and freshness, and its here to stay. Atelier Cologne Ambre Nu Allegedly, in 1525, a Saronno church commissioned one of Leonardo da Vincis pupils, artist Bernardino Luini, to daub their sanctuary with frescoes. Prada Infusion dIris 9 Eau de New York ", Natural musk comes from the glands of the musk deer and is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. Plus entry to win $500 in store credit. Now it has a somewhat old-fashioned, great-aunt-ish image, which means carnation tends to be consigned the chorus of a perfume rather than placed in the spotlight. Chemical & Engineering News reported that: 'Large fragrance and ingredient firms like Givaudan are developing nonendangered, sustainable sources of natural ingredients. Collection of agarwood from natural forests is now illegal under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endanged Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), but some is now beginning to be plantation grown in Vietnam. Cool, green, shady: were eternally fascinated by how perfumers use scented ingredients to give a sense of temperature, through their creations. It can also be created synthetically and often is, why may explain why the brands which use real jasmine are so keen to share its story, No wonder its known simply as La Fleur, in the perfume world or The Flower Because theres probably no note (other than the aforementioned rose) which is so important, to noses, Acqua di Parma Gelsomino Nobile Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois Lady Gaga Fame Gucci Flora by Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia Miller Harris Couer de Fleur Why allspice? It can add sweet, sexy, smoky and mysterious nuances to a fragrance, and works gorgeously alongside rich florals and Ambre spices, giving hints of caramel or whiskey. Paco Rabanne 1 Million Back then, it was made into hair and face powders, placed into pomanders, and was the basis for delicious perfumed sachets for wearing on the body. Byredo La Tulipe A fragrance without roses is almost as unthinkable as a love affair without kisses. It takes a massive amount of the trees wood to produce the oil: each trees said to yield just 1%, by weight, of oil to wood. Thierry Mugler Angel Frederic Malle Lys Mediterane. Artmesia absinthium is accordingly a very green, sharp, bitter herbaceous fragrance element; youll find it more usually in mens scents, where it brings balance to floral notes. Gucci Guilty Intense Burberry The Beat Review of Chanel No. ), Caron Tabac Blond The whole orange family is invaluable to perfumers; mandarin peel has long been used in sachets and pot pourris to scent the home. Jasmin Sambac is one of the grande dames of perfumery. Dior Addict You cant shake a real cocktail into a scent, of course so the drink has been conjured up synthetically as a fantasy fragrance ingredient to give a sense of sparkling, crisp peachiness. E. CoudrayJacinthe & Rose Yves Saint Laurent Elle, Chemicals like Iso E Super (a bit of a tongue-twister, well grant you) are important tools in a modern perfumers kit: perfumer Francis Kurkdjian told us it was torture for him to create a scent for a recent Paris exhibition, without ingredients like this at his fingertips, to turbo-charge the staying power or help fill a room. For hundreds of years, from Roman times (thats as far back as we know about) this style of perfume blended styrax, calamus and labdanum; in the Middle Ages, oak moss began to be added, to create pastilles for burning. Dior Dolce Vita The most prized geranium of all comes from the Ile Bourbon, with its rich, green, fruity-mint rosiness. Perfume Cologne Aftershave Fragrance ingredients are also commonly used in other products, such as shampoos, shower gels, shaving creams, and body lotions. Andrea Maack Dark DiorLes Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella Fragrances today are mostly a fusion of ingredients taken from nature or inspired by nature together with the synthetics (man-made ingredients) that are used to make them last longer, carry further, or stay true, when worn on the skin. (Look under E for more about eugenol.). Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto, Rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself. Serge Lutens Chne. Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire ', Boucheron Boucheron Dior JAdore Dior ), Grs Fleur de Cabotine Diesel Loverdose Its fascinating to us how perfumes which are invisible can have a texture, but the fragrances listed below really do give a sense of that, as they cocoon you with their musky, woody, velvety, leathery qualities. Jean Patou 1000 But with zero calories. And its still a key ingredient in many sensual and iconic Ambre perfumes today, Agent Provocateur Eau Provocateur Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Brilliant VI Botanically, dills known as Anethum graveolens, and originates from the Med, and southern Russia. Chopard Wish Pure Vivienne Westwood Boudoir This tree - native to the Middle East and south Asia but now also blossoming across Europe, Africa and the United States first offers us a froth of white or pale pink blossoms: almond blossom absolute, taken from those flowers, is a soft note with hints of subtle heliotrope, or honey. Local Perfume Ingredients View Gallery RELATED STORY: Tags: ", A heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note, amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree. Oakmoss Absolute has a mossy, forest-like, and marine algae-like note," says perfumer Nicole Mancini. Kephalis is very versatile, a useful weapon in a perfumers arsenal, blending beautifully with floral notes such as rose, violet, lavender, jasmine but also enhancing amber, woody and tobacco scents, to very sophisticated effect. (Plus the fougre family, which is mostly mens scents. Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. Este Lauder Sensuous Comme des Garons 2 Theres an intriguing back story to the naming of this plant, meanwhile. With fruits so abundant in contemporary perfumery, it was inevitable that the sweet stickiness of dried fruits, too, would be make their way into some creations. Paul & Joe Blanc Dior Poison Superb floraliser. (Castor, by the way, gets its name from the Greek word for beaver. Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. Santalum album isnt actually a tree but a parasitic plant which grows by suckering itself to the roots of other trees, and slowly growing as high as 10 metres. Penhaligons Cornubia, An aromatic alcohol, benzyl alcohol can be derived from many plants including jasmine, tuberose, wallflower and ylang-ylang. (Fennel is of course familiar to most of us as a food but did you know its also used in creating absinthe, the no-longer-banned-but-it-still-makes-you-dance-on-tabletops French alcoholic drink? (Literally, it was a medium of exchange, a form of money.) (Though it can help to accent other herbal elements of a composition. But perfumers wouldnt be without patchouli, for the richness that it gives to fragrances and not just those heady Ambres: patchouli makes its way into many chypre and powdery fragrances, swirling exotically alongside lavender, sandalwood, labdanum and bergamot, clove, clary sage, as well as vetiver. So why does forget-me-not sometimes appear as a fragrance ingredient? "Because they are so long-lasting, musk is often the note that lingers on the skin after all the other notes have disappeared.". (Strictly it should probably be a solifruit, but there you go.) As perfumerAlienor Massenet explains, 'Amber notes are warm, and can evoke liquor. Lilies have been used in perfumery since ancient times: they were very well-loved in Egypt, as part of a perfumed ointment based on the flowers of 2000 lilies, while the ancient Greeks used Madonna lilies to make a perfume called Susinon. Boucheron Japur Bracelet Guerlain Samsara Stand in a bluebell wood, close your eyes and a delicate, green-floral haze will envelop and delight you: thats what perfumers who work with bluebell are trying to recreate. The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). L'Oreal is one of the companies that dictate perfume industry stats by owning various famous fragrance brands. A well-known family of garden shrubs, syringe bursts into a froth of white flowers in late spring, filling the air with its jasmine-like sweetness which is what perfumers capture, often alongside other white florals, but also in chypre creations. A heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note, amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree. Citron is French for lemon. At Unilever, we think there is a certain magic to fragrances - bringing together perfumery artistry and scientific expertise. Givenchy Ange ou Demon Floris Fleur Sometimes the perfumer conjures up a black tea note, sometimes green but the effect is always uplifting. (And weve adopted it ourselves.) Your memory isnt deceiving you: if youve ever buried your nose in a bunch of these beautiful, delicate blue (or sometimes white or pink) flowers hoping for a whiff of something equally gorgeous, youll have been disappointed: theyve almost no scent at all. Once upon a time, black peppers value was on a par with gold hence the nickname and only the rich could enjoy it. Kenzo Flower by Kenzo No wonder perfumers love it: peach almost gives the same velvety texture to a fragrance that you get from stroking the ripe fruit itself. Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue Launched in the 1990s, calone recreates the honey-like, watery qualities of the delectable fruit a relation of squashes and cucumbers - which originated in Africa and south-west Asia.
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